off the map

Back in Sandakan the next afternoon, we hadn’t showered for three days and I was feeling a little fragile after trying to combine boat trips, hikes and shared toilets with food poisoning. So we booked into a nice hotel…it was only $50 per night but it felt incredibly luxurious. We commented at least a dozen times to each other that it was the best idea ever….

The next day we flew via Kota Kinabalu to Mulu National Park, which is a World Heritage listed site. It is incredibly beautiful here…thick jungle framed by mountains. And so many shades of green….

We went for a jungle walk last night and spotted some interesting insects and plants – I was a little preoccupied trying not to writhe on the ground in agony from stomach cramps so I’m a little hazy on the details….

Josh wanted me to go to the doctor earlier, but I knew he’d listen to my symptoms and say “well, you have food poisoning. Nothing you can do about it”. But I’d had enough by this morning, so we got directions to the local clinic and walked 2km down the road and through the jungle in the sizzling sun (taxis are a little thin on the ground here). It was very “Off the Map” (for anyone who downloaded that great show about the medical clinic in the jungles of South America, or stayed up watching it in some bizarre time slot) and I got straight in and saw a quite good looking English speaking doctor who listened to my symptoms, examined me, and said “well, you have food poisoning. Nothing you can do about it”. However, he did give me some hard core medication if I wanted to halt things long enough to see some of the park (and unfortunately, some hideous re-hydration salts that evil nurse Josh almost has to force down my throat).

So, I’ve been lying around roasting in our room, trying to drink re-hydration salts, while Josh has been off exploring and taking photos for me. I’ll have to sign off here, because I have some angry French backpackers hanging around wanting to use the computer, and they’re interfering with my writing chi.

Josh here… just wanted to add a couple of things… Yes i am an evil nurse, but it’s been absolutely useless because she won’t drink any of the re-hydration salts. Mary, say something to your daughter.

Also this place is beautiful and definitely deserves its UNESCO world heritage listing… I have to be honest though and say I preferred the stuff in China, but that’s probably just because I don’t like the tropical heat. I spent this morning hiking and the afternoon caving while Penny was writhing in bed, and I wish she’d been able to come with me, but we’re visiting the garden of Eden tomorrow so she decided to rest up and save her strength.

Last night just after we arrived, the skies opened up and it poured tropical rain for more than 2 hours… we both commented on how beautiful and refreshing it was and as I left for my caving trip Penny looked out of the hostel window and said wistfully, “I hope it rains this afternoon…umm… after you get back I mean”.

The whole time I was caving, all I could hear were bats and the occasional roll of thunder. When I came out of the cave, it slowly started to rain… one or two drops at a time, for the whole 25 minute boat ride back to the hostel. I thought of what Penny had said and as the boat rounded the last corner and the rope bridge came into sight, the rain started pelting down and the whole river was alive with raindrops. The boat docked and I took my time walking back to the hostel… and that was my second shower of the week.